North 2013

Eiszeit bei 25 Grad Celsius

Die Straße zum Montagne d'Ambre

Nach und nach sammeln sich alle im Innenhof des Noor-Hotels. Der Geruch von gestern Abend hängt immernoch in der Luft, und jetzt ist auch klar, woher er kommt: Eines der grünen Abflussrohre,  das aus dem ersten Stock nach unten reicht, ist marode und läuft aus. Oder naja, der Eimer, der vorher drunter stand, wurde von dem Kath mampfenden männlichen Bediensteten des Hauses zu anderen Zwecken entwendet.

North 2013

Bunt, bunter, Pantherchamäleon

Fotografieren mit Dimby auf der Straße zwischen Ambilobe und Sirama

Ich habe geschlafen wie ein Stein. Nur mittig auf der Matratze, aber immerhin lief die Klimaanlage – zumindest mehrheitlich – die Nacht durch. Diesmal bin ich also quasi mehr als munter, als wir wieder auf den Markt Ambilobes zum Frühstück gehen. Auch heute morgen gibt es die extrem leckeren, frisch frittierten Bananen und Makasoka. Noch eine Cola, dann kann es losgehen in Richtung Sirama. Die Straße ist bekannt für ihre vielen, knallbunten Pantherchamäleons.

North 2013

Between the Tsingys

Die Tsingys von Ankarana

I’m dog-tired. The annoying muezzin, the air conditioning that has to be turned back on, the countless blackouts… and it’s not just me. Most of the group are about to fall asleep. I’d like to sleep on the floor.

North 2013

Of kath zombies and a muezzin

Goldstaub-Taggecko in meinem leeren Cocktailglas

The spider is – to my great relief – not detectable in the morning. I deliberately did not light up the ceiling and I did not look under the bed. Since I’m up early anyway, I get up directly and sort my whole backpack apart with pointy fingers. It would be even creepier if I could carry such an eight-legged souvenir around with me!

North 2013

Relaxation at the dream beach


Today is a day of doing nothing. One by one at half-past nine everybody comes in for breakfast (this time with pineapple juice). Officially there is no program today. Who likes can lie down on the beach and let the sun slowly grill them. Some of them want to look for frogs near the entrance to the lodge by a stream in the forest.

North 2013

A visit to Nosy Faly

Pantherchamäleon auf Nosy Faly

The day begins with a small breakfast. The open restaurant serves baguette, honey and scrambled eggs. You get a glass full of thick, white-greenish liquid with it. Supposed to be Corasol or something. It tastes like stirring some plants with water, not my cup of tea. I drink it bravely anyway, somebody claims that it protects against cancer (well, if the evil pharmaceutical industry finds out! 😉 ).

North 2013

In the realm of the panther chameleons

Pantherchamäleon aus Ankaramibe

What I didn’t know last night: There is no sleeping at 30,9°C and without air conditioning anyway. The air is so extremely stuffy that at about three o’clock at night I open the window at some point because it is simply not bearable in the heat. As a result, a million mosquitoes follow the delicious smell of human skin. I spend the next two hours struggling with the hum, the fan, the mosquitoes, and the heat.

North 2013

Lunch with brains

Auf dem Weg nach Antsohihy

Early in the morning, we start packing. Since I simply cannot handle the sandbox around my tent very well, I throw the things to be taken along and everything that has to be rolled up out of the tent onto the concrete surface for desanding. Air mattress, sleeping bag, sweater, the backpack gets a more careful treatment because of the photo equipment, then pillows and mobile phone fly after it.

North 2013

Shower with gecko


Another day, another walk around the lake. Breakfast with Makasaoka and coke. But this time I’m doing brilliantly – and it’s very amazing how fast you can suddenly get around Lac Ravelobe at normal speed! Only this time it’s the other way around the Ravelobe.

North 2013

The Revenge of the Frog

Lac Ravelobe

All night long I’ve been rather humble. circulation, stomach cramps, nausea – the late revenge of the frog? No idea. I feel better in the morning, but I still feel dizzy. But at least I can say that the stars above Ankarafantsika are amazing – I had enough time to observe them tonight.